HAiK w/Franz History

In 2012, I met the designers working together as HAiKw/ (53). At the time the company consisted of Siv Støldal, Ida Falck Øien and Harald Lunde Helgesen. Støldal left the group in 2017. The fundamental idea behind HAiKw/ is to collaborate with designers, artists and people working in other disciplines, and develop ideas and production methods based on these meetings. HAiKw/ also focuses on Norwegian production, and has collaborated with several local manufacturing companies, such as Aurlandskoen and Lillunn.

My motivation to collaborate with HAiKw/ was to allow my method, thinking, knowledge and, in particular, my relationship with Sjølingstad to come into contact with other people's attitudes, methods and energy. It was also interesting for me to gain experience working within a commercial framework, and to see how the material I present in an art and craft context is perceived from this different perspective.

For the winter collection in 2014 we worked together at Sjølingstad. We decided to start from a standard quality weave that the mill has in production - a twill woven using yarn spun at Sjølingstad from Norwegian class C1 wool. This material is used for the mill's version of cloth. From the raw fabric in ecru we developed new qualities and textures. Almost all the machines at the factory were used when Harald Lunde Helgesen and I completed production - spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing.

I developed the colour range at KHiO based on conversations with HAiKw/ about the overall colour expression in the collection. Some of the fabrics were treated before dyeing, creating holes and threadbare parts. This effect was a continuation of the theme HAiKw/ had explored in previous collections, about healing and repair.

For the design of the clothes we examined the locker rooms at Sjølingstad, and found a lot of worn workwear. HAiKw/ based new designs on these clothes, especially on an overall that I used when I was employed at the mill.

The fabrics from Sjølingstad were combined with two series of printed fabrics - one developed by Ida Falck Øien from hand-painted chequered patterns, and another series developed by Falck Øien and the anthropologist Charlotte Bik Bandlien, responding to healing exercises by painting with watercolours. The collection was shown at Kunstnernes Hus in Oslo in March 2014. The garments were produced in Estonia at the clothing factory HAiKw/ was collaborating with at the time. The collection was sold in stores in several cities, including Oslo, Tokyo and Beijing.

In summer 2014 the garments and photographs from the collection were exhibited at Sjølingstad. The clothes were presented hanging on assemblages of old weaving equipment, tools and machine parts. Photographs of the clothes worn by models were shown in the exhibition arena and at different locations in the workshops of the mill.